Lee's Bermuda Journal 2003

Thursday, November 13 - Well, it’s a good day to leave. The winds are gusting to 100 km/hour in Toronto as the plane takes off from Pearson International on schedule at 8:40am. The tail of the plane swings from side to side as we ascend. Once we are up in the air the flight is fairly stable with just a little turbulence as we begin the journey. Everything is covered in dense cloud until we pass over the U.S. shoreline and head out over the Atlantic.

The sun soon shines on the Sargasso Sea and before there is time to finish the in-flight movie, we descend into this miracle of volcanic rock in the midst of the Atlantic that is Bermuda. It’s barely lunch time!

Making our way via taxi to the hotel is quick and easy. The happy result being that we are off for an afternoon of sight-seeing within one hour of arriving in Bermuda. Laurel and I are the only ones to arrive in Bermuda on Thursday as everyone else is coming in Friday at noon. We head downtown to the bus terminal, buy a 3-day pass, and climb aboard a bus to see the Crystal Caves.

As we get on the bus, we are greeted by a large, female bus driver with cornrows swept up into a bun that is cocked off to one side. Her nails are almost as long as my baby fingers and as colourful as a parrot. Pop music is playing. I suddenly realize that they must not allow bus drivers to play music on our public transit. She either knows everyone who gets on the bus or appears to know everyone who got on the bus. This acknowledgement of every citizen of Bermuda continues as the bus heads off to the Crystal Caves - she honks and waves to everyone. It is plausible that on an island of 27 square miles and 60,000 people, she would know everyone. Although after spending just a short time on Bermudian roads, I realize that the honking is perpetual. So perpetual, that it’s impossible to know who is being honked at and, if you are a little paranoid and/or sensitive like me, you may always think you are doing something wrong – especially when driving a scooter for the first time!

The combination of rolling hills on the speeding bus through narrow, winding roads with an altitude hangover proves to be somewhat overwhelming and the site of the Swizzle Inn conveniently located at the bus stop for the Crystal Caves is a joyous thing. The Swizzle Inn is famous in Bermuda for inventing the Swizzle drink. Fortunately, I am at least smart enough not to try experimenting with Bermudian alcohol quite yet. Two cups of coffee, a piece of jalapeno pepper corn bread topped with guacamole has amazing restorative powers.

Thus, rejuvenated, Laurel and I head for the Crystal Caves, just making it in time to participate in the last tour of the day.

This amazing cave, filled at the bottom with sea water, stalagmites and stalactites was discovered by two boys about 100 years ago. What a splendid discovery and I can not help but wonder if they would be disappointed by its present expropriation by tourists. Our guide has a think accent and I find it difficult to follow her commentary. Soon I am being reprimanded for asking questions for which she has apparently already given us the answers in her soliloquy descending into the cave. My recommendation is to “ooohhh”, “aaaahhh” and take pictures!

Returning to Hamilton we are again impressed by the cordiality of people going on and off the bus. Small children climb aboard and greet the driver with a solemn “Good afternoon”.

Friday, November 14 - Cool and windy but sunny with a few pats of clouds. We decide to take the ferry (fare included in the bus pass) to the Royal Naval Dockyard. The ferry ride offers a superb view of even more superb Bermudian real estate. The Keep at the Royal Dockyard houses several interesting displays and a dolphin show. If you want, you can swim with the dolphins. We just watch someone else swim with the dolphins! The Commissioner’s House has been stunningly restored and houses informative displays describing life in, and history of, Bermuda including slavery, the Portuguese community, the war years, and yacht racing.

Other buildings in the Dockyard house local crafts and outposts of stores that can be found in Hamilton and St. George’s. Laurel and I then take the long (but of course scenic!) bus ride to the Lighthouse and the magnificent Warwick Beach and Jobson’s Cove. Here we can see the pink coral remnants in the sand that render the Bermuda Beaches their famous pink colour. The ocean water feels warmer than the air and definitely warmer than the pool at the hotel.

The rest of the marathon gang arrives this afternoon so we are beginning to feel the excitement rise!

Saturday, November 15 - Everyone heads out to St. George’s for a day of sightseeing. St. George’s is designated a World Heritage Sight by UNESCO. It is quiet as tourist season is over. I had heard that Tobacco Bay at this end of the islands is a choice swimming spot so, on that advice, we all trot over. Thankfully, the 0.8 km trip is not so arduous that anyone resents my enthusiasm for a beach that turns out to be filled with seaweed. We later learn from a talkative taxi driver that this seaweed is seasonal - coming in late October or early November from the Sargasso Sea when the prevailing winds shift.

Linda, Tim, Jackie and I hop on a bus stopping at the Perfumery - a disappointment except for the Gardens. I don’t think any of us even like the fragrances – none of which are made from Bermudian flowers any more. We have to get the bus back to Hamilton anyway, to pick up our race packages at the Expo!

[Note to future Walking marathoners: Be sure to take at least one bus ride in Bermuda, and be sure to get a seat in the very last row when you do, to get the full effect of the ride!]

Most race expos feature high tech running equipment, clothes, booths with representatives from other marathons, and much more.

In Bermuda, we find Linda Horton selling Horton’s Original Bermuda Rum Cake, Carole Holding selling her own concoctions of watercolors on tea towels and cutting boards and a good supply of her jams - special price of $4 on Marmalade made with Bermuda Gold Rum (since it was just introduced!) Of course, I buy a tea towel and some marmalade. All sold with a smile by Carole herself! As yet, I have not decided who will be the lucky recipient of the tea towel for Christmas!

Truly a one-of-a-kind experience as far as Race Expos goes! Is it to be a taste of the entire race?

The race entries of this international event feature mostly Canadians (Team Diabetes!) all of whom are staying at the Fairmount Princess. WoW power walkers are staying across the road and up the hill a short distance at the Rosemount - a decent and reasonable hotel with efficiency units that allow us to prepare our own meals, if we want.

As a group we had decided to prepare our own pasta dinner (there is no official pasta dinner). This turns out be a very successful, delectable cooperative effort as all levels. Special kudos must go to Sonja for preparing a vegetarian sauce and meat sauce before leaving for Bermuda. She froze it and brought it on the plane in a soft cooler! Of course, the talk for most of the dinner pertained to issues of clothing for race day!

We are all in our rooms by 9pm after singing a rousing rendition of Happy Birthday to our sole support crew and “Scooter Boy”, Warren (coming along to cheer on wife Lyne). We plan to wake by 5am and head out by 6:40 so as not to miss the 7am start.

Sunday November 16 - Race morning! Though the sky is still dark, it feels warm. After stepping out on the balcony I put on shorts and a singlet. Soon there is general activity by the marathon group as everyone continues the discussion of the evening before - What are we going to wear??? Thankfully, our own “Scooter Boy” and photographer, Warren, will be accompanying us along the route and can fit amenities in the rear basket of the scooter. No one needs to panic! We can pick up a jacket or drop off a jacket as need arises!

The start is not too busy as there are only 117 participants in the half marathon and 56 in the full. There is no chip timing and just a couple of guys directing us to go straight and then turn left when we see an arrow!

The day is overcast which is welcome. We follow the South Shore Road which is quiet at 7am. We pass fragrant flowers, a church with bells ringing, stunning ocean views, roads that have been washed away by hurricane Isabel, and port-a-potties (this is big news if you had walked Casino Niagara!). Truly and seriously, though, the route is stunning as there really is no ugly part to Bermuda.

Tim and I almost take a left fork in the road only to be conveniently redirected to the right by a race official coming up behind us by happy coincidence. As we get closer to Hamilton, runners start to pass us. There is clearly a running road race being held. As we turn a corner, we come upon a group of race officials directing us to the right. I certainly don’t remember a right turn in the course, but not having the map with me, we do as we are told. About 150 meters down a road and then turn left to find….a finish line! Alas, it is the wrong finish line. With quizzical looks we ask the onlookers if this is really the finish for the walking marathon. From no where appear a couple of pleasant and, thankfully, knowledgeable people who inform us that we must return to the main road, turn right and continue into Hamilton. Ah! Tim and I suspect we must have added at least ½ an hour on to our time (well….maybe 4 minutes!).

We make it to the finish line although it isn’t that readily identifiable as such - there aren’t too many people around! The medals aren’t out of boxes yet! After receiving our medals, Tim notices they are medals for the full marathon and we have just completed the half! We think we probably deserve the medals from the full marathon in consideration of the detour we walked so close to the finish. Too bad Tim’s wife, Linda, is walking the full marathon, otherwise we might get away with the coup!

Ahhhh! What an event.

All WoW power walkers finish the half marathon in good times (see results). Congratulations to Maria (who overcomes a fall early in the race), Kim (recovering from a serious foot injury), Anne, Sonja and Laurel (amazing times and finishing places!), and Tim who tied for 2nd place (and only because he seemed to think that ladies should go first!). The full marathoners (see results) come through and have to push on to complete a second loop. Many of us are concerned about traffic for these full marathoners and as it turns out…rightly so. Not that they are in danger of being hit or side-swiped (well, maybe) but none of them enjoy the automobile exhaust fumes. We recommend a point-to-point race in Bermuda!

No matter about any quibbles with an event or its organizers, it is ALWAYS an amazing feat to complete a full marathon. Congratulations to Wendy, Lyne, Jackie, Stuart and Linda who stayed totally committed to their training schedules and are rewarded with excellent times on a hilly course and even better rewarded with minimal recovery time! Everyone is out to class in less than a week!

The event is ably celebrated with a bracing swim in the hotel pool, hang-out time at the beach, champagne toasts to supportive friends in Stu and Sonja’s fine accommodation, and an excellent celebration meal at the Hogge and Pennie – a Bermudian establishment of excellent repute where we can all load up on much needed calories! (It’s also not a very long walk from the hotel!!!)